Norwegian Spirit Cruise Reviews

Overview
The cliche "East meets West," when it comes to Norwegian Cruise Lines' Norwegian Spirit, isn't quite precise: "East goes West and tries its best to adapt" might be more like it.

The story of how Star Cruises' SuperStar Leo came to be reborn as Norwegian Spirit is at once fascinating and tragic.

In January 2004, NCL's Pride of America was nearing completion at the Lloyd Werft Shipyard in Bremerhaven, Germany, when she was swamped in a gale and partially sank to the bottom of the sea. She was to be the flagship in the new NCL America program, the first U.S.-registered cruise ship in 50 years, sailing Hawaii itineraries. Furniture had been delivered, the engines were installed, fifteen miles of wiring had been completed. She sat, submerged up to her third deck, for nearly a month before she was refloated.

NCL America's itineraries included a late spring launch of Pride of America, and then, after the Alaska season, Norwegian Sky was to be refitted and reflagged as Pride of Aloha. With the sinking of Pride of America, NCL quickly adapted its plans, moved up the transformation of Norwegian Sky and found itself short a ship in Alaska. Enter Star Cruises, the Malaysian-owned parent company of Norwegian Cruise Line, offering to "lend" NCL a large ship that was compatible with the needs of the North American cruise market. SuperStar Leo had been launched in 1998 and seemed to be a perfect fit. Passengers scheduled to sail the Sky's Alaska itineraries were offered a transfer to this vessel, which was renamed Norwegian Spirit.

Purpose-built for the Asian/Pacific market and for family cruises of three to four nights (rather than the seven-night itineraries it will be sailing as Norwegian Spirit), the ship is an interesting blend of modern convenience and Asian custom. Those unaware of the history of this ship might be confused by the surfeit of Chinese symbols and artwork, by the rack of chopsticks at the fast-food restaurant, by the banks of chaises and chairs that form an amphitheater overlooking the children's play area, by a specially designed room for mah-jongg.

The staff and crew had exactly two weeks to refit the ship for the Alaska reassignment and to ensure that its physical "plant" met the exacting codes of the regulatory agencies in the United States, a task that proved daunting. Most of the cooking facilities had to be completely reworked since the galley equipment is so different for the two markets. Rice cookers and woks were replaced with grills and hot plates. The dining rooms were less of a problem than the buffet area, in which refrigeration units and hot holding boxes were installed, and as of now, there is no cooking facility at the buffet. Ice machines and coffee makers all had to be either overhauled or replaced to comply with U.S. Public Health service regulations; safety equipment and standards had to be reworked to comply with U.S. Coast Guard demands; and the crew and staff had to be rigorously reviewed by U.S. immigration to qualify them for work in U.S. waters.

As a testament to the frenzy of hard work, Norwegian Spirit has emerged as a wonderful new entry in the North American cruise market. The ship's odd quirks and cultural differences make it unique and interesting, and anyone lucky enough to sail on Norwegian Spirit will quickly come to appreciate the beauty of her public spaces and its incredible, hard-working, attentive staff and crew.

Public Rooms
Norwegian Cruise Line ships feature a central atrium which is called the Grand Centrum, and on Norwegian Spirit this space is the focal point of social interaction. It rises six decks high, capped with a surround of Palladian windows echoing those at the aft of Windows restaurant. A black marble floor leads to a grand and elegant staircase, which climbs to the shops above, and a lounge, Champagne Charlie's, which features music in the evenings. A spectacular woven carpet, looking like a circular floor "sculpture," is inlaid flush with the marble flooring; its intricate designs and bright colors contrast beautifully with the black marble. On the starboard side of the Grand Centrum is a series of upholstered chairs and divans for conversation; on the port side is the Cafe, a small lounge that serves coffees, cakes and cookies, and other bar drinks. Behind the staircase is a black marble fountain, which can be seen from the atrium's three glass-enclosed elevators as they rise to higher floors.

There are three knockout, standout spaces on this ship that are breathtaking; in fact, the nicest at sea in their categories:

Windows, one of the two main dining rooms on Norwegian Spirit, sits at the aft end of Deck Six. Dark woods, brocaded chairs and hushed candlelit elegance are framed by gigantic Palladian windows looking over the stern. This room is a classic, and could easily have been found on the famous ocean liners of bygone eras.

The Galaxy of the Stars, located on Deck 12 forward, is the observation lounge of the Spirit; amazing care and detail went into the design of this space. It's vast, for one thing, and bright, with floor to ceiling glass surrounding it on three sides. The predominant color is the blue of the carpet, but the furnishings are dark woods, glass-topped tables, deep cushioned chairs and window seats with brocade upholstery. A small bandstand and dance floor are in the middle, a large bar near the entrance; a circular stairway descends to a bridge viewing area, and a computerized navigational chart on a raised platform allows you to follow the course of the ship.

The third amazing space on this ship is Charlie's Childcare Center and Buccaneer's Wet and Wild. What? A "kid's club" as a standout? Yep! The best in its class outside of a Disney ship. It's amazing, like having a shipboard amusement park, with tunnels and tubes, rooms filled with those balls that kids love to jump in, a pool complex with slides and fountains and pirate muskets blasting water, and the best game arcade on the seven seas, all bright and colorful, and attended by bright and colorful childcare professionals.

It isn't that the other public spaces pale in comparison; it's just that these three are so incredible they deserve special mention.

There are bars and lounges scattered throughout the ship. One favorite is the Cafe, located in the Grand Centrum along the port side. It's a lovely space, quiet amid the goings-on in the atrium and backed by the soothing sounds of the fountain behind it. Champagne Charlie's is located just above the Centrum floor near the shops on Deck Eight; music played at night filters throughout the atrium area. Celebrity Disco is small, intimate and fun, but is difficult to get to for those unable to climb stairs. It's located forward on Deck 13, but the only elevator that goes to that deck is midship and then you have to cross open deck to get forward. The Bund, Norwegian Spirit's sports bar, is located in the corridor on Deck Seven and seems cramped and rowdy. There are private karaoke rooms available behind it for guests who want to try their hand at sing-alongs. Henry's Pub, a clubby room behind the reception desk on Deck Seven, serves beer, lager, spirits and billiards in an Olde English-style environment. When the weather is good, Raffle's Terraces, located outside and aft on Deck 12, is the best spot on board for a drink or a beer. It looks out over the kids' pool area and the stern of the ship, and is cheerful and friendly. The bar at the Bier Garten will be hopping on Caribbean itineraries and is enjoyable on Alaska cruises when the weather is cooperating.

There is a small movie theater on Deck Eight, behind Champagne Charlie's. It's a charming room, and is also used for religious services.

The Moulin Rouge showroom is unique in that it uses two decks to create its slant, assuring excellent line-of-sight for all seats. The two-deck slant is compensated for in Windows restaurant, just below it, where one end soars two decks high; a true architectural innovation.

Trivia tidbit: Just behind the Moulin Rouge, at the aft of Deck Eight, are huge (empty) cages which you can see by exiting through the rear on either side of the stage. These cages housed the live lions and tigers originally used in production shows on the ship when she was SuperStar Leo. The distance between the stage and the first row of seats in the theater is large, not to fit an orchestra as I originally assumed, but to keep the tigers from pouncing on the guests as they tended to do when there were seats in that location.

Just aft of the Galaxy of the Stars lounge is a series of public rooms that include the library and Internet center, a game room, a cigar room and a mah-jongg room. All of these spaces are lovely, but the library and Internet center really stand out. They are calm, peaceful, and small but well-designed spaces, with elegant furnishings and windows lining the starboard side of the ship. Internet prices are reasonable at rates from 30 cents per minute to 75 cents per minute depending on the package you choose. Wireless access is available too, and almost all public spaces have "hot spots."

Caveat: Well into our Alaska cruise, when people were lining up to complain about lack of access, unused time that was being charged, inability to log out and other irritations, we were told that Internet capabilities on Alaska itineraries are limited due to the mountains that block satellite service. If we had known that going in, we wouldn't have been quite so frustrated, but the Internet manager cheerfully refunded overcharges.

There are shops on Deck Eight surrounding the atrium, but they are tiny and cramped and don't have a lot to offer (mostly because there is not enough room to offer much of anything). There is a new Colombian Emeralds store onboard, which is unique for a cruise ship, and another jewelry store with the usual baubles. There is a sundry and duty-free shop and a logo/apparel shop.

Fitness and Recreation
This ship has plenty to keep the avid exercise junkie busy, including a terrific Sports at Sea program (which offers logo items to those who complete their programs.) The outside promenade on Deck Seven circles the ship and is the ideal place for a walking circuit; the Sports Deck (13) has a running track, basketball court, volleyball, and a golf cage. Ping-Pong tables are located at the aft of Deck 11.

There is one large swimming pool on the Lido Deck (12), big enough for early-morning lap swims, surrounded by four large hot tubs. In warm climes, this deck will get a lot of use. It's very nicely laid out, attractive and accessible.

The gym is small but well equipped, and Spirit has a couple of unique features not found on other ships. Two small "aquaswim" pools are located within the fitness center. Approximately six feet wide by 12 feet long, these heated pools allow you to swim against a current of water, which provides resistance. If you don't get to the big pool before the crowd does, this is the perfect way to get your laps in.

There are separate changing rooms, relaxation rooms, and steam and sauna rooms for men and women. The women's side is gorgeous and expansive, with a relaxation room along the port side of the ship, lined with windows looking out to the sea. There are a couple of televisions and several comfy chairs and sofas. There is a large dressing room and a large sauna and steam room for women to use. Those on the men's side are small; the dressing room is small but adequate, the steam and sauna rooms much smaller than those for women. The men's relaxation room is cozy, with a single television, located in an interior room with no windows.

Trivia tidbit: The men's and women's facilities were reversed during the refit for the North American market, a fact which I found fascinating. The Asian culture exalts men's relaxation and pampering, leaving the smaller and less appealing side for the women. During the changeover, the urinals were removed from what is now the women's side. There was nowhere to place them in what is now the men's side, so standard toilets are all that are to be found in what are now the men's steam/sauna and relaxation areas.

The Roman Spa, operated by Mandara (Steiner of London), offers treatments ranging from hot stone massages to "body-cleansing" wraps. Treatment rooms are very small on this ship, and have the usual Bali-centric decor used by Mandara spas. Prices ranged from a low of $29 for a head and neck treatment to a full day of pampering for over $300. The mid-range for massages seemed to be around $100; look for specials in the daily Freestyle paper, especially on port days.

Fellow Passengers
NCL's Freestyle Cruising appeals to a casual and unpretentious crowd of all ages. Family groups choose this ship for the hundreds of connecting staterooms, and the children's center is one of the best at sea. All age groups are represented, from infants to seniors, and the ship's staff really does an exceptional job of catering to the needs of everyone.

Gratuity
NCL recommends a minimum of $10 per day, which is added to your shipboard account. This amount can be adjusted upwards or downwards at final accounting time; it is suggested that you tip for room service as it's delivered. Beverages purchased onboard and surcharge meals include a gratuity charged at point of service. Most guests on the cruise I enjoyed were so thrilled with their room teams that they cheerfully handed over extra tips in cash on the last night.

Dining
NCL doesn't advertise gourmet fare, so it's picky to be disappointed with "merely very good," as it is in the two main dining rooms aboard Spirit. Meals are creative and attractively served, if slightly underseasoned.

NCL's "Freestyle Cruising" means choices, lots of them beyond these traditional dining rooms. Choose when to dine and with whom, and choose among nine restaurant options.

Maxim's Steakhouse ($20 or $25, depending on your meal selection) is a small but beautiful room with an atmosphere of intimacy and with large windows looking out the port side. Food choices range from grilled salmon to steaks and chops to whole lobsters; the presentation is nice, the servers solicitous and the meals nicely prepared.

Taipan Bistro, NCL's French restaurant (surcharge $15), is located midship behind the Grand Centrum. Although the design of the facility is Chinese, the fare is French. Menu items range from appetizers of escargot in garlic butter to Spirit's version of "surf and turf," which includes four small half-tails of lobster, filet mignon, three sauces and a choice of vegetables. A generous portion of salads is offered, including a Caesar complete with anchovies, and a lovely spinach-leaf salad with pine nuts and chevre crostini. The Bistro's most popular dessert, chocolate fondue, is simply divine: Chunks of fresh fruit are served in a pineapple "boat" and a pot of warmed chocolate is placed on the table for dipping. That item alone is worth the Bistro's surcharge.

The Asian-themed Shogun ($12.50) serves sushi, tempura and other Japanese specialties. The ship's executive chef for the specialty restaurants personally prepares the sushi and sashimi to exacting Japanese standards. Not only are the dishes fresh and delicious, they are visual works of art. This is my favorite of the three surcharge restaurants.

The one dining venue on Spirit that is disappointing is the Lido deck buffet, Raffles Cafe. The ship's staff acknowledges that this spot presents a challenge, and explains that the kitchen setup in that location, prior to the change from SuperStar Leo to Norwegian Spirit, did not comply with either CDC regulations nor safety regulations. Since the ship had such a short window of time to convert for the U.S. market, there was not much that could be done. As a result, there are no cooking facilities at all in that location, so food has to be brought up from the kitchen to be placed in the steam tables, by which time it has lost most of its appeal. The ship's management is working hard at devising interim solutions to these challenges and hopes to have them resolved in the near future.

The Bier Garten, located forward on Deck 13, serves all-day hamburgers, hot dogs, salads and "Bavarian-themed" items such as knockwurst and sauerkraut. Surrounded by picnic tables, it occupies a perch overlooking the central pool complex. This spot will be terrific on Caribbean itineraries but was difficult on our Alaska route, where the weather can be quite chilly.

Late night snacks are provided in the casino and include sandwiches, olives, pickles, veggies and dip and some sort of hot item (the chicken sate with peanut sauce was great.) NCL's signature Chocoholics' Buffet is also present, but it took place during my cruise at the exact time the ship was visiting Sawyer Glacier, which I and many other guests considered quite odd. Many of us didn't realize that it was being served on the pool deck so we missed out chocolate "fix."

Room service is simple, with mostly cold items. The exceptions are ramen noodle soup, made-to-order pizza and grilled cheese sandwiches for kids. Breakfast is continental only, no hot items. Suite guests get a wider range of room service choices, including hot breakfast, dining room meals served in-suite and a couple of sandwiches not on the menu for guests in standard staterooms.

Hint: The room service sandwiches are very nicely presented, but they are pre-made and sit in the refrigerator for who knows how long before your order arrives at your door. This causes the bread to be kind of hard and curled on the outside, soggy from the lettuce on the inside. Opt instead for one of the grilled cheese sandwiches from the kid's menu; they are freshly made and really good.

Entertainment
Norwegian Cruise Line has long been known for its excellent production shows, and this ship is no exception. The Moulin Rouge theater is one of the finest at sea, and the shows are elaborate, colorful and exciting. Evening entertainment includes individual performers as well, and an occasional folkloric troupe brought onboard for a cultural show. One of the solo entertainers on our cruise brought the house down, not once, but twice, with standing ovations and demands for "MORE! MORE! MORE!"

Two of the lounges featured live music on a daily basis, Champagne Charlie's and Galaxy of the Stars. Champagne Charlie's is above the atrium floor, so anyone in that area could enjoy the offerings every day. Dancing to live music was available nightly in the Galaxy of the Stars. There was disco music and dancing in Celebrity Disco every night as well.

The cruise director's staff did an admirable job of providing fun activities ranging from craft lessons (beaded geckos!) to learning a foreign language (Spanish and Tagalog, the language of the Phillipines). And there were plenty of onboard games, trivia contests, bingo, Who Wants to Be A Millionaire, Liar's Club and even The Weakest Link, with shipboard logo prizes given out to the winners.

The casino, Maharaja's, is one of the largest at sea, with a huge array of slots and table games. Interestingly, most of the tables were low, and the dealers sat as did the players. Slot machines ranged from five cents to $25 (not many players were seen around those) and some allowed you to change denomination in the middle of your play...to switch from playing quarters to playing dollars and vice versa. On sea days the casino was open nearly 24 hours.

The art auctions seemed to be a big hit with those who attended them.

Family
If ever a ship were custom-built for families, this is it. Other ships have child care centers and well-trained staff; this ship has a child center that looks like a day camp for the kids of the rich and famous. In fact, approximately one-fifth of Deck Ten is allocated to children and their activities.

The center itself is divided into several rooms, each with a purpose and each age-appropriate. Then there is the video arcade, a vast room with games and activities that will keep older children and teens occupied for hours. There's a teen disco, an activity room for younger children that uses tubes and balls and climbing things and tunnel things and lots of soft toys, all in bright primary colors. There's an outdoor activity area and a crafts section -- and then there is Buccaneer's Wet and Wild, an onboard "waterpark," with a pool surrounded with caves and a mountain, two small slides that require entry through a tunnel, pirate's cannons that shoot water, and even a children's hot tub. An amphitheater has been built between decks 10 and 11 at the aft end so those with children can sit and watch their kids play while enjoying a beer or drink from the Raffles bar.

There is no charge for using the center, which takes children from age two to sixteen. Toddlers in diapers are welcome, but only while the parents are onboard; they are given a beeper and notified when their child needs to be changed.