Overview
Noted ship architect Frans Dingemans, who is responsible for most of Holland America's fleet, once said that a line's flagship must be very special as befits her status as the standard-bearer. The Amsterdam, HAL's second flagship (along with her sister, the Rotterdam) is not only special, she is exquisite. The third ship bearing the name of the Dutch capital in the line's 127-year history, the Amsterdam's interiors are more luxurious, elegant and formal than those of HAL's V-class ships (Volendam and Zaandam). And, like the Rotterdam, she sports twin smokestacks and boasts an all-suite concierge deck with a lounge for the exclusive use of guests residing in two penthouses and 50 suites (14 more than the Rotterdam). The Amsterdam is the first HAL ship to have Azipod propulsion, allowing her to cruise at 22.5 knots. HAL's loyal following will love this ship as will anyone new to the line who appreciates a gracious and refined ambiance rich in comfort, class and culture.

Public Rooms
The monumental 29.5-foot Astrolabe clock tower dominates the three-level, oval-shaped, atrium at the heart of the vessel - it is a fanciful and poetic astronomical timepiece with one clock synchronized with the ship's clock, a world time clock and a carillon. Interiors - in rich colors with lots of warm paneling - are graced by a $2 million art and antiques collection including the Four Seasons sculptures originally created for the Nieuw Amsterdam of 1938 that now are displayed near the Crow's Nest Lounge; Ming Dynasty guardian statues in the Art Gallery; and bronzes of bears by British sculptor Susanna Holt by the pool. Not to mention the grand vases of fresh flowers throughout the public rooms that typically adorn HAL ships. A popular hub for an after-dinner drink is the Ocean Bar with music from a duo, just steps from the show lounge; and the Explorer's Lounge, with a mural-size painting themed to 17th century Amsterdam. Other popular spots are the ocean view Erasmus library, the Puzzle Corner and the Java Cafe adjacent to the Internet C@fe with seven individual stations (basic charge is 75 cents a minute). There are four self-service launderettes (a wash and dry cost $2 including detergent) featuring ironing board/iron and folding table. Three staircases, like on the Rotterdam, save steps: guests are never farther than 130 feet from the stairs.

Entertainment
The 557-seat Queen's Lounge, elegantly decorated in purple and red with blue accents, is the main show venue for Broadway-style revues and variety. It has a revolving stage with hydraulic lifts, a confetti cannon effect system and a moving light system. Colossal figures of women hold glass bowls (that serve as lamps) above their heads and fiber optic lights twinkle in the ceiling. Seating is in the form of banquettes and chairs and sightlines are excellent. Evening entertainment is quite varied, ranging from pianists playing Broadway show tunes to instrumental ensembles in the ships bars, such as the Crow's Nest, Rembrandt Lounge, Ocean Bar and Explorer's Lounge. The 217-seat Wajang Theater is the venue for a rather tired collection of films, most of which are available at passengers' neighborhood video stores. The Casino features tables for blackjack, poker, roulette and dice plus 107 slots.

Family
Young sailors have a playroom, The Skyroom, and a video game arcade. Club HAL is the line's program of supervised activities for guests 5 through 17. Activities include storytelling, crafts and candy bar bingo for the younger children; putt-putt golf, pool parties and video games for pre-teens; and movies, pizza and disco parties for teens. A children's menu includes burgers, hotdogs, and chicken dippers. Babysitting is available while the ship is at sea. Fee is $8 an hour for the first child, $5 for each subsequent child in the same family. Make arrangements through the Front Office 24 hours in advance.

Dress Code
There are three formal nights on 10-day sailings when the dress code calls for business suits or tuxedos for men (about half don tuxes) and cocktail dresses or gowns for women. Two nights are informal, when jackets are required for men and ties are optional. Five evenings are designated "casually elegant" when comfortable clothes are the rule, but HAL requests no jeans, T-shirts or shorts in the dining room.

Gratuity
For years and years, Holland America Line distinguished itself with its "no tipping required" policy, the objective of which was to prove that the cheerful and accommodating staff worked for the love of serving their guests, not for tips. Unfortunately, many passengers took this to mean "tips are included," or "tipping not allowed," so as Holland America hopes to attract a more diverse clientele and more first-time cruisers, the tipping policy has been specifically addressed.

According to a statement from Holland America president Stein Kruse, the tipping policy -- fleetwide -- is as follows:

"For your convenience, a gratuity of $10 per guest per day, for dining and stateroom service, will be automatically posted to your shipboard account. We are confident you will find the service on board exemplary and, should you wish to make adjustments, you may do so at the end of the cruise by visiting the Front Office. Also, a 15 percent service charge will be automatically added to your bar and beverage purchases."

Fellow Passengers
With itineraries featuring 10-day and longer sailings, the average age of guests is expected to be in the low 60s. Generally, they are well traveled.

Fitness and Recreation
The Ocean Spa incorporates treatment rooms for massage, sauna and steam, beauty salon and juice bar. Its ocean-view gym offers 11 Cybex treadmills, six Cybex bikes (2 recumbent), a dozen Cybex weight-training machines, two Concept II rowers, three Cybex stair climbers and free weights. There is an outdoor pool and a magrodome-covered pool with two Jacuzzis, bar and terrace grill. A jogging track on Sports Deck (10 times around equal one mile) is complemented by a wrap-around promenade for strollers (3.5 times around is one mile). Other opportunities for recreation include paddle tennis courts, volleyball, shuffleboard and ping-pong.

Cabins
Eighty-one percent of the staterooms offer ocean views; 25 percent have private verandas. Amenities are similar to those in fine land-based resorts: herbal soaps, shampoo and lotion, hair dryer, chocolates on the pillows. There are 17 cabin categories of accommodations, with suites and mini-suites with verandas (categories PS, S, A and B) being a wonderful splurge - imagine sitting in your own private terrace to enjoy the eight-hour daylight transit of the Panama Canal! Veranda Suites are an expansive 563 sq. ft. and feature whirlpool bath and shower, two beds convertible to king-size, large sitting area, dressing room, sofa bed, VCR, mini-bar, refrigerator, floor-to-ceiling windows and veranda. Plus, nowhere is the suite life sweeter than on HAL with such complimentary services/amenities as bathrobes, personalized stationery, tea and hors d'oeuvres served in the suite, cocktail party with the captain, Indonesian Rijsttafel luncheon hosted by the captain, corsage and boutonniere the first formal night, and special disembarkation privileges. A Large Outside Double (Category D) is a good middle-of-the-road stateroom choice: 197 sq. ft. with sitting area. Ours had a pleasant peach/rust/beige/blue color scheme, lots of closet/drawer space and bath with tub. Inside Doubles, (Categories I-N) measure a roomy 182 sq. ft. Staterooms on Lower Promenade Deck open to the promenade (where your views may be of walkers).

Dining
Ice sculptures on rotating pedestals greet guests to the two-level La Fontaine Dining Room. This formal restaurant is highlighted by a laminated, colored glass ceiling (that looks like stained glass) in a floral motif, with flowers in soft tones of green, blue, orange and yellow. Art Deco lamps provide lighting throughout the room that is decorated in shades of blue, green, yellow and orange, to complement the colors of the ceiling, and features a music alcove. The food is excellent - we particularly enjoyed the potato-crusted King salmon, prime rib of aged beef au jus and grilled veal chop with a green peppercorn sauce. Service varied wildly from outstanding (particularly in The Odyssey) to mediocre (often encountered in the Lido pool area, where dirty dishes were left for long periods on tables and the buffet and grill attendants seemed completely disinterested in keeping the area tidy and well stocked).

The Pinnacle Grill at the Odyssey Restaurant is the ship's alternative restaurant, a beautiful, intimate setting for 88 diners, and decorated in red, black, gold and cream with warm burl wood, and landscapes by fine artist Bas Sebus. The Odyssey serves a blend of Northwest-influenced and Italian cuisine and there's a $20 per person service fee. In this era where ships are constantly adding a'la carte charges beyond the norm, Holland America is refreshingly value-oriented; other no-fee extras include espressos and cappuccino free in the Java Bar, dining room and room service as well as the fresh popcorn at the movie theater. The Lido Restaurant is yet another dining venue serving buffet breakfasts and lunches as well as casual dinners. Room service is available 24 hours a day with a somewhat limited but adequate menu; service was outstanding.